Palio di Siena
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The Palio di Siena (known locally simply as Il Palio) is a horse race held twice each year on July 2 and August 16 in Siena, Italy, in which ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colours, represent ten of the seventeen Contrade, or city wards. The Palio held on July 2 is named Palio di Provenzano, in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano, who has a church in Siena. The Palio held on August 16 is named Palio dell'Assunta, in honour of the Assumption of Mary.
A magnificent pageant, the Corteo Storico, precedes the race, which attracts visitors and spectators from around the world.
The race itself, in which the jockeys ride bareback, circles the Piazza del Campo, on which a thick layer of dirt has been laid, three times and usually lasts no more than 90 seconds. It is not uncommon for a few of the jockeys to be thrown off their horses while making the treacherous turns in the piazza, and indeed it is not unusual to see unmounted horses finishing the race without their jockeys.
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History
Origins
The earliest known antecedents of the race are medieval. The town's central piazza was the site of public games, largely combative: pugna, a sort of many-sided boxing match or brawl; jousting; and in the 16th century, bullfights. Public races organized by the Contrade were popular from the 14th century on; called palii alla lunga, they were run across the whole city.
When the Grand Duke of Tuscany outlawed bullfighting in 1590, the Contrade took to organizing races in the Piazza del Campo. The first such races were on buffalo-back and called bufalate; asinate, races on donkey-back, later took their place, while horse-racing continued elsewhere. The first modern Palio (called palio alla tonda to distinguish it from the earlier palii alla lunga) took place in 1656.
A second Palio in August
At first, one race was held each year, on July 2. A second, on August 16, was added from 1701, though initially the August race was run intermittently rather than every year. The August race (il palio dell'Assunta) which coincided with the Feast of the Assumption was probably introduced 'spontaneously' as part of the feasting and celebration associated with this important festival. The 16th of August was presumably chosen because the other days of the mid-August canonical festival, the 14th and 15th of the month, were already taken up respectively by the Corteo dei Ceri (Procession of the Ceri) and by the census.
The August Palio started out as an extension of the celebrations of the July Palio, and was organized and funded by July's winning contrada, though only if the contrada in question could afford it. After 1802, however, organisation and funding the August race became a central responsibility of the city, which removed annual uncertainty over whether or not an August Palio would run.
Restriction
In 1729 the city's Munich born governor, Violante of Bavaria, defined formal boundaries for the Contrade, at the same time imposing several mergers so that the number of Senese Contrade was reduced to seventeen. This was also the year of the decree restricting to ten the number of Contrade that could participate in a Palio: the restriction, which remains in force, resulted from the number and extent of accidents experienced in the preceding races.
17 Contrade
The seventeen Contrade are:
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In each race, only ten of the seventeen contrade participate: the seven which did not participate in the previous year's Palio, and three others chosen by drawing lots.[1]
The Race Today
The first race (Palio di Provenzano) is held on July 2, which is both the Feast of the Visitation and the date of a local festival in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano (a painting once owned by the Sienese leader Provenzano Salvani, which was supposed to have miraculous curative power). The second race is held on August 16 (Palio dell'Assunta), the day after the Feast of the Assumption, and is likewise dedicated to the Virgin Mary. After exceptional events (e.g. the Apollo 11 moon landing) and on important anniversaries (e.g. the centennial of the Unification of Italy), the Sienese community may decide to hold a third Palio between May and September. The most recent was in 2000 to mark the Millennium.
The field consists of ten horses, so not all seventeen city wards can take part in the Palio on any occasion. The seven wards which did not take part in the previous race are automatically included; three more are chosen by draw (twice a year, in the last days of May and at the beginning of July). Private owners (among them, some jockeys) offer the pick of their stables, selected during the year after trial races, other Palio races in Italy and veterinary examination, from which main representatives of the participating Contrade, the Capitani, choose ten of approximately equal quality, three days before the race. A lottery then determines which horse will run for each Contrada. Six trial races are run, the first on the evening of the horse selection and the last on the morning before the Palio. The devout residents of each Contrada invoke the sacred aid of their patron saint on their horse and jockey.
The worldly improve their odds with more dubious methods, chiefly bribery and doping. The sensible simply keep a close watch on their stable and their rider.
The horses are of mixed breed, no purebred horses are allowed.[2]
The race is preceded by a spectacular pageant, the Corteo Storico, which includes (among many others) Alfieri, flag-wavers, in medieval costumes. Just before the pageant, a squad of carabinieri on horseback, wielding swords, demonstrate a mounted charge around the track. Spectators arrive early in the morning, eventually filling the centre of the town square, inside the track, to capacity; the local police seal the entrances once the festivities begin in earnest. Seats ranging from simple bleachers to elaborate box seats may be had for a price, but sell out long before the day of the race.
At 7.30 p.m. (July) / 7 p.m. (August), the detonation of an explosive charge echoes across the piazza, signaling to the thousands of onlookers that the race is about to begin. The race itself runs for three laps of the Piazza del Campo, the outer course of which is covered with several inches of dirt, tuff, and the corners of which are protected with padded crash barriers for the occasion. The jockeys ride the horses bareback from the starting line, an area between two ropes. Nine horses, in an order only decided by lot immediately before the race starts, enter the space. The tenth, the rincorsa, waits outside. When the Rincorsa finally enters the space between the ropes the starter (Mossiere) activates a mechanism that instantly drops the canapo (the front rope). This process (the Mossa) can take a very long time, as deals will have been done between various contrade and jockeys that affect when the Rincorsa moves - he may be waiting for a particular other horse to be well- or badly-placed for example.
On the dangerous, steeply-canted track, the riders are allowed to use their whips (in Italian, nerbi, stretched, dried bull's penises) not only for their own horse, but also for disturbing other horses and riders. The Palio in fact is won by the horse who represents his contrada, and not by the jockeys. The winner is the first horse to cross the finish line — a horse can win without its rider (a condition known as cavallo scosso). The loser in the race is considered to be the Contrada whose horse came second, not last.
The winner is awarded a banner of painted silk, or palio, which is newly created by a different artist for each race. The enthusiasm after the victory, however, is so extreme that the ceremony of attribution of the Palio is quite instantaneous, being the first moment of a months-long celebration for the winning ward. There are occasional outbreaks of violence between partisans of the various Contrade.
There may be some danger to spectators from the sheer number of people in attendance. There have also been complaints about mistreatment of horses, injuries and even deaths, especially from animal rights associations and even from some veterinarians. In the Palio held on August 16, 2004 the horse for the Contrada of the Bruco (Caterpillar) fell and was badly trampled as the race was not stopped, despite possible additional safety risks for other horses. The horse died of its injuries, raising further complaints from animal rights organizations, which do not recognize the municipality's efforts to improve the safety of the race and the exceptionality of that accident.
The Palio race differs from "normal" horse races since part of the game is for the wards to prevent rival "contradas" (which are called "Enemies") to win. Many tricks are allowed for this purpose, including trying to knock off the rival's jockey or to block or hamper the rival horse at the start.
The most successful ward is Oca, the Goose, which won 63 races (at least at their records starting from 1644), followed by Chiocciola, the Snail, with 51 and Tartuca, the Tortoise, with 45. Oca is also the "contrada" which won the most in recent history (from 1900 to 2009) with 21 victories, followed by Drago, the Dragon, and Selva, the Forest, with 17 victories each.
Among jockeys, the most victorious of all times is Andrea De Gortes nicknamed "Aceto" (or "vinegar") with 14 wins (from 1964 to 1996), followed by Angelo Meloni nicknamed "Picino", who won 13 times between 1897 and 1933. Luigi Bruschelli nicknamed "Trecciolino", who is still in activity, is third in the number of wins with 11 successes.
The most successful horses were Folco and Panezio with 8 wins each, followed by Topolone with 7.
In recent history (from 1900 to now), only two wards were able to win both year's races (July and August of the same year). It happened to Tartuca (Tortoise) in 1933 and to Giraffa (Giraffe) in 1997 with jockey Giuseppe Pes nicknamed "Il Pesse".
Ritual and Rivalry
The Palio di Siena is more than a simple horse race. It is the culmination of ongoing rivalry and competition between the contrade. The lead-up and the day of the race are invested with passion and pride. Formal and informal rituals take place as the day proceeds, with each contrada navigating a strategy of horsemanship, alliances and animosities. There are the final clandestine meetings among the heads of the Contrade and then between them and the jockeys.[3] There is the two hour pageant of the Corteo Storico, then all this is crowned by the race, which takes about 75 seconds to complete. Although there is great public spectacle, the passions displayed are still very real.
There is also a particular attention to the ward that has been the longest without a victory. In this case the Contrada is nicknamed "nonna" or "grandmother". The Civetta (Owlet), had the title from 1979 until 2009, when it won the August 16 race. Torre, the Tower, has had this title for being without victory for 44 years (from 1961 to 2005) and also Bruco, the Caterpillar, has had the title for not winning over 41 years (from 1955 to 1996). The "nonna" is currently the Lupa (She-Wolf), which has not had a victory since 2 July 1989, a period of 21 years, 227 days.
Palio (Drappellone)
The Drappellone (banner in English) , or Palio, the "rag" as its called the Siena , is the trophy that is to be delivered to the Contrada winner of the Palio of July 2 and August 16.
The Palio consists of an original painting on fabric (silk) and must have a particular dimensions, that of a elongated rectangle, is held vertically on a shaft halberd black and white and topped by a silver plate with two white and black plumes draped down sideways.
The Palio remains the property of the Contrada along with the plumes. The plate is returned to the city of Siena before the two Palio's of the following year. After recording the name and date of the Contrada of victory in the back. There a silver platter for the Palio in July and one for the August Palio. The plates are renewed approximately every ten years.
Its value is unique, because it represents a particular historical period of the city of Siena, each Palio reported the symbols of the various governments that have presided, by the crest of the grand duchy of Lorraine to that of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, from the Kingdom of Savoy of Italy, and from the Fascist Italy to the Republic.
The process that an artist should follow in implementing the Palio is rigid: it must meet a precise iconography that includes some sacred symbols, as the July Palio is dedicated to the Madonna of Provenzano (and is painted by a Sienese painter) and of August at 'Assumption (and is painted by a famous painter either national or international). It must also be necessary to have the insignia of the city present, those of the third part of the city, and references of symbols and / or colors of the 10 districts in the race. No limits but the style that the artist can take. Citizenship is presented during a press conference in the Courtyard of the Podestà of the City Hall about a week before the race.
The Palio runs throughout the year
Although many activities take place within each Contrada, the organization of the Palio is still the largest, since it is not just in two races each year. Each time, the festival itself runs for four days of intense rich and various events, the preparation of which lasts all year.
From early winter the leaders are talking and developing strategies, making contacts with the jockeys and horse owners. These prepare those who run in square or taking part in minor Palios (la cosiddetta provincia ) and bringing them to training courses organized by the city in the spring.
The full activities of the Palio start to grow in momentum towards the end of May, with the drawing of lots of the three remaining contrada that will join the seven that have won the right to race. With districts and teams outlined Contrade begin to talk about "deals" (engagement of jockeys) and "parties" (secret pacts for the win), despite the not knowing which horse that will be drawn in the lot.
About a week before the race the Palio (Drappellone) itself is presented to the City who has commissioned a local artist (in the case of the Palio of July) or internationally recognized (in the case of the Palio of August or a special Palio). Also at this time prior visits occur to where the horse will be presented for the lottery.
In the first of four days of festival the lottery is held, and subsequent combination of the Barbero (The term racehorse in the city of Siena and Tuscany) to districts in the race. The stone race track around the square is covered with a layer of dirt composed of a mixture of tuff, clay and sand. Six trials are run, during which the riders have the opportunity to better understand the behaviour of the horse that they have mounted and do get used to the square, its sounds and rhythms of the race. Although the trials are followed by many tourists and Contrada members in square, barriers are mounted on the outside of the track.
Among the events that mark the approach of the palio are the rehearsal dinner, the "Mass" of the jockey and the blessing of the horse and jockey.
The Extraordinary Palio's
A The Extraordinary Palio is a third Palio which may take place during the period between May and September, and is associated with events or anniversaries of major importance for the community of Siena. Last extraordinary Palio coincided with the advent of the new millennium. It was actually held on 9 September 2000 and was won by Selva (Forest), by jockey Giuseppe Pes riding on The horse Urban II. Prior to this the last Palio extraordinary held on 13 September 1986 to celebrate the centenary of the abolition of the Balia and Biccherna governments.
In earliest times, the third Palio was a way to honor distinguished guests passing through or visiting Siena. An example is the extraordinary Palio of 7 June 1676, during the visit to Siena of the wife of Prince Don Agostino Chigi, or even that of 15 June 1673 (not considered official), honouring the visit to Siena of Cardinal Flavio Chigi. Even the Grand Duke of Tuscany requested another round of Palio, perhaps closer to the ordinary.
From the second half of nineteenth century extraordinary Palio's began to be organized for celebration of special events, rather than illustrious visits. This was the case of a meeting of the Society of Sciences, or the inauguration of important monuments (such as the inauguration of the monument to the fallen in the Battle of Curtatone and Montanara, on 29 May 1893). In 1896 they even ran four Palios, both ordinary and two extraordinary. The first race on 16 August which is considered extraordinary because it was requested by the citizens as the original race was moved to 25 August due to transfer from Siena's VIII Corps and the second on 23 September, for the inauguration of monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi.
A Third Palio was held in 1945, by popular acclaim to celebrate the end of World War II, the "Palio of Peace", won by Gioacchino Calabro riding Rubacuori su Folco, for the Contrada of Drago (Dragon). An extraordinary Palio was held in 1969 to commemorate the conquest of the Moon by the mission Apollo 11.
The following years created the habit of running on the occasion of a centenary of particular importance. This is the case of 28 May 1950, the fifth centenary of the canonization of St. Bernardine of Siena, or the 5 June 1961 for the centenary of Unification of Italy.
Victories per Contrada
| Contrada | Total Victories | XVII Century | XVIII Century | XIX Century | XX Century | XXI Century | Date of last victory |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Aquila |
24 | 0 | 7 | 6 | 11 | 0 | 03 Jul 1992 |
 Bruco |
37 | 6 | 7 | 16 | 5 | 3 | 16 Aug 2008 |
 Chiocciola |
51 | 4 | 19 | 14 | 14 | 0 | 16 Aug 1999 |
 Civetta |
33 | 2 | 7 | 15 | 8 | 1 | 16 Aug 2009 |
 Drago |
36 | 2 | 8 | 10 | 15 | 1 | 16 Aug 2001 |
 Giraffa |
33 | 3 | 5 | 9 | 15 | 1 | 02 Jul 2004 |
 Istrice |
41 | 4 | 11 | 14 | 10 | 2 | 02 Jul 2008 |
 Leocorno |
30 | 3 | 3 | 11 | 11 | 2 | 16 Aug 2007 |
 Lupa |
34 | 1 | 11 | 11 | 11 | 0 | 02 Jul 1989 |
 Nicchio |
42 | 5 | 10 | 12 | 15 | 0 | 16 Aug 1998 |
 Oca |
63 | 8 | 14 | 20 | 20 | 1 | 02 Jul 2007 |
 Onda |
38½ | 4 | 9½ | 14 | 11 | 0 | 02 Jul 1995 |
 Pantera |
26 | 3 | 6 | 7 | 9 | 1 | 02 Jul 2006 |
 Selva |
37 | 2 | 11 | 6 | 15 | 3 | 02 Jul 2010 |
 Tartuca |
47½ | 4 | 11½ | 16 | 12 | 4 | 16 Aug 2010 |
 Torre |
44 | 6 | 12 | 20 | 5 | 1 | 16 Aug 2005 |
 Valdimontone |
43 | 2 | 16 | 10 | 15 | 0 | 16 Aug 1990 |
| Total | 658 | 59 | 167 | 211 | 202 | 19 | [4] |
Photo Gallery
 The crowd fills the Piazza del Campo just before departure. |
.jpg) The horses come in to the Piazza del Campo for a grand entrance. |
 Municipality workers tighten the ropes just the beginning of the race. |
.jpg) Each Contrade are called to take their respective places before the race. |
.jpg) The last horse enters, The move is valid: Race starts. |
.jpg) Alberto Ricceri expresses his joy at the victory of 16 August 2006 for Selva (Forest). |
.jpg) Jonatan Bartoletti kisses Brento in thanks, before entering the Church for Maria Mater Gratiae. |
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Sources
- Brown, Margaret Mcdonough and Titus Buckhardt (1960). Siena, the City of the Virgin. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
- Drechsler, Wolfgang (2006). "The Contrade , the Palio and the Ben Comune: Lessons from Siena", Trames 10(2), 99-125.
- Dundes, Alan and Alessandro Falassi (2005). La Terra in Piazza. An Interpretation of the Palio of Siena. 2nd of the new edn. (Orig. 1972). Siena: Nuova Immagine. (Standard work, but meanwhile very controversial because of its Freudian interpretation.)
- Falassi, Alessandro (1985). "Palio Pageant: Siena's Everlasting Republic", The Drama Review 29(3), 82-92.
- Handelman, Don (1998), Models and Mirrors: Towards an Anthropology of Public Events, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
- Silverman, Sydel (1979). "On the Use of History in Anthropology: The Palio of Siena", American Ethnologist 6(3), 413-436. (Most important counter-model to Dundes & Falassi.)
- Pascal, C. Bennett (1981). "October Horse", Harvard Studies in Classical Philology 85, 261-291.
- Spicer, Dorothy Gladys (1958). Festivals of Western Europe. Wilson.
- 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica, Siena
- Il Palio di Siena website - English Summary.
External links
- Archive of the Palio di Siena I (Italian) The Italian archive site includes access to short contemporary films of the Palio for 1930 and most subsequent years.
- Archive of the Palio di Siena II (English)
- History of the Race (Italian) (English)
- Regulations of the Palio (Italian)